Why Inflammation Is Giving You Adult Acne And What To Do About It, According To Skincare Experts
If acne is caused by inflammation, bacteria, and sebum production, and inflammation is increased by stress, hormones, and diet, then how can we get to a place where we’re genuinely thriving and enjoying radiant and glowing skin? I talked to two experts to get their perspective.
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According to the International Journal of Dermatology, there has been a 10% increase in women suffering from skin issues compared to 10 years ago. But why is adult acne in women more rampant than ever? Is it the toxic ingredients in our beauty products and daily environment? Or has the Western diet really wreaked havoc on all of our guts, resulting in our skin getting out of whack?
I’d hypothesize that the main culprit is the increase in normalized chronic stress – the average modern woman tries to have and do it all – and while I could convince you with my own lived experience, I’ll say that science also agrees. But while stress might be the underlying root cause and trigger of sensitivities, here’s how we can support our body and skin by understanding how inflammation occurs so we can heal from the inside out.
The Increase in Adult Acne
“There is a major rise in the prevalence of adult acne,” Cheryl Woodman, a scientist, skincare expert, and award-winning skincare formulator, tells Evie Magazine. “In fact, a study published this year as a scientific report in Nature shows over an 80% prevalence in students in their early 20s.”
While the most common cause of adult acne is a hormonal imbalance (which explains why traditional treatments like the pill or spironolactone are prescribed), Woodman and Katie Stewart, an acne-focused Registered Holistic Nutritionist, both highlight that these are merely bandaids, covering up the root causes of acne.
For Woodman, there are two major reasons why cases of adult acne are rising: “Firstly, we’re forgetting how to live – a Western lifestyle is well linked as a causal factor for acne. This includes hormonal dysregulation caused by diet, poor or disrupted sleep, physiological stress, and lack of movement. These factors compound against each other, raising inflammation levels and triggering genetic tendencies to conditions like acne.”
A Western lifestyle is well linked as a causal factor for acne.
Stewart agrees, adding that “the shift from eating homemade meals with real food like protein, fruits, and vegetables to a Standard North American diet of processed, refined, and sugary foods, combined with increased environmental chemicals from pesticides, toxins in water, cleaning products, personal care products, and rising medication use, has significantly impacted gut health, the body's detoxification ability, and hormonal balance. These factors have paved the way for acne to form.”
“Secondly, hormonal birth control use is widespread,” Woodman tells me. “It has been known since the ‘70s that hormonal birth control can cause metabolic disruption, causing, for example, blood sugar dysregulation and vitamin and mineral deficiencies. Many forms of birth control also contain androgenic progestins, which are laying the perfect foundations for acne.”
While I’ve never been on birth control or eaten a majority of processed foods, learning about how our modern way of life has contributed to such a spike in adult acne has made me take a step back about not only what I eat but how I eat. Will you find me slumped over my desk, trying to hit a deadline before I need to head out? Guilty. Am I eating upright and sporadically while preparing food for others and trying to keep the kitchen somewhat tidy? Maybe… Stress itself has been shown to negatively affect the regulation of our blood glucose levels, and that has been humbling for me – a self-confessed, highly strung person – to take on board.
What Is Inflammation?
Woodman tells me that inflammation is the body’s immune response to stress: “It’s easy to think of stress as psychological, but stress in the body is caused by an incredible amount of factors such as diet, blood glucose spikes, nutrient deficiencies, hormone imbalances, and more.”
According to Stewart, there are two types of inflammation: acute and chronic. “Acute inflammation is like your body's first responder. It's a quick reaction to an injury or infection, causing redness, swelling, and heat. Think of it as your body's way of protecting and healing itself in the short term,” Stewart tells Evie Magazine. “Chronic inflammation, on the other hand, is like a slow burn. It sticks around for months or even years, often due to ongoing issues like diet, chronic stress, and poor gut health. This type is often at the root of almost every health issue, condition, and disease – acne being one of them.”
Stewart continues, “The most insidious factor of chronic inflammation is that its symptoms can creep up on us and take many forms, including constant fatigue, digestive issues, joint pain, headaches, weight gain, brain fog, anxiety, depression, frequent illness, or skin problems like acne and eczema.”
I personally became interested in inflammation after I noticed strange skin symptoms after the pandemic, which was arguably a stressful time for most people. Add in a career change, shifts in friendship circles and family dynamics, and the end of a relationship, and I’m pretty sure that stress unleashed it. First, it was chilblains (which sounds positively Victorian, right?), and then it was rosacea and other lingering skin issues.
“The body is excellent at warning us of inflammation levels higher than they should be,” Woodman tells me. “The skin can be an early warning signal of rising inflammation levels, triggering visible symptoms and skin conditions like acne, eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea.”
As grateful as I am to not be experiencing any health symptoms other than the most visible (thanks for that, inflammation), I was told by both experts that inflammation can often impact hormone health, alongside a change in skin health, such as heavier periods or more painful cramps.
Why You Need To Know About the Skin/Gut Axis
Remember the phrase “listen to your gut”? I never quite understood it until I realized that our gut is basically our second brain. No, it can’t solve equations or write a book, but according to Harvard Medical School, it uses the same chemicals and cells as our brain to help us digest and it will also alert our brain when something isn’t right. Our gut is also connected to our skin, and the state of our skin can indicate the state of our gut!
When the gut is compromised, it can lead to increased inflammation, hormonal imbalances, and nutrient deficiencies, all contributing to acne.
“The Gut-Skin Axis is the connection between our digestive system and skin,” explains Stewart. “The gut and skin ‘talk’ to each other through various pathways, like hormones, immune responses, and the nervous system. A healthy gut, with a balanced microbiome, strong intestinal barrier, and efficient digestion, helps reduce inflammation, eliminate toxins, and absorb essential nutrients, all of which are vital for clear skin. When the gut is compromised, it can lead to increased inflammation, hormonal imbalances, and nutrient deficiencies, all contributing to acne. Simply put, a healthy gut is crucial for maintaining clear, healthy skin!”
My initial reaction to learning about this link (and understanding it more via Stewart’s podcast, The Clear Skin Chronicles) was to panic buy all the sauerkraut and embrace 85% dark chocolate as my only dessert. But as Stewart makes clear, having “food fear” is an added stress none of us need.
Understanding Our Bio-Individuality
I find it so important to remember that every person has a genetic uniqueness. This means, for example, that “one woman’s raised inflammation levels could cause low mood and fatigue, while another experiences acne,” says Woodman.
This realization has helped me step out of this “why me?” victim mindset and off the comparison treadmill.
Stewart adds that “many people might not realize their morning fatigue, afternoon coffee cravings, or mood swings aren't normal.”
“Genetics can determine how our skin reacts to different triggers, making some more susceptible to acne,” Stewart explains. “Lifestyle choices, such as diet, stress levels, and skincare routines, also play a crucial role. Additionally, a woman’s health history is pivotal – history of medication use, past illnesses and infections, and even past traumas can influence our overall health (and inevitably our skin). It’s important to remember your current health status results from everything you've experienced from conception until now. And that journey through life is unique to every person.”
As a society, we’ve normalized symptoms to such a degree that it can be easy to ignore. Before my skin issues, I used to get a headache every week which I nicknamed the “Monday headache.” Clearly, my body was trying to flash a red light in me that I was stressed at work or doing too much on the weekends, but I shrugged it off as “no big deal.”
I never thought I’d admit to being grateful for the skin issues I’ve experienced, but they were harder to ignore and made me take a step back to live more intentionally.
Treating Inflammation and Congested Skin
While my continuing journey has been to master my own stress management, adopting a holistic approach to ensure my body has the right conditions to heal is ideal.
“To fight inflammation and prevent its increase, it's essential to focus on an anti-inflammatory diet. This means eating a variety of colorful fruits and vegetables, ample protein, and drinking clean water,” Stewart starts.
If blood sugar is unstable, it can increase sebum production in the skin, leading to clogged pores.
“Equally important is to avoid pro-inflammatory foods like gluten, conventional dairy, refined vegetable oils, sugar, and unfiltered water. Additionally, incorporating stress reduction practices, ensuring you get 7 to 9 hours of sleep each night, and not skipping meals [to not raise your cortisol levels] are crucial steps in maintaining overall health and clear skin. These habits, and including protein, fiber, and healthy fats at each meal, are critical for maintaining balanced blood sugar levels. If blood sugar is unstable, it can increase sebum production in the skin, leading to clogged pores.”
Incorporating more balanced meals has been a culinary adventure for me. I’m upgrading the continental “coffee and croissant” breakfasts and beige main meals like mac’n’cheese by adding in extra proteins, vegetables, and low-sugar fruits to add some color and much-needed fiber and fats. (My secret? Homemade bread using organic spelt flour, which is made from an ancient grain known for its health benefits.)
“Another important aspect to consider is avoiding over-exercising,” Stewart adds. ”While regular exercise is beneficial, overdoing it can actually increase inflammation and stress on the body, leading to issues like fatigue and compromised immune function.”
Why Wellness Habits Are So Important in This Fight
While it may be tempting to think that topical treatments will be your solution, skincare is only one very small part of the clear skin puzzle. Stewart actually recommends a minimal routine of a gentle cleanser, serum, and moisturizer, as overusing harsh products will damage our skin barrier.
“We love products with probiotics, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or vitamin C,” Stewart reveals. “Additionally, using fruit-based enzymatic masks and chemical exfoliants with AHA or BHA once or twice a week can help slough off dead skin and reduce clogged pores.”
But ultimately, both experts agree that mindset is the biggest tool in shifting skin inflammation. “Finding time to pause and be still – whether that means literally sitting still and watching a view for five or 10 minutes or taking a 10-minute meditation – is important for reducing inflammation levels and allowing your body to heal and repair,” Woodman instructs. “It’s simple but incredibly impactful! I challenge many of my clients to set a timer for five minutes and just sit. They often tell me it feels like half an hour, and they have to keep checking their phone for fear the timer has malfunctioned. This shows how busy our pace of living is! Taking a pause regularly is a powerful tool to support healthy hormones.”
Closing Thoughts
If these conversations taught me anything, it’s that acne may be an externally obvious sign, but it’s really a symptom of an internal issue. Woodman likens it to a “smoke signal from your body to say, hey, pay attention to me! I need some love and care.”
“The reason you have acne is due to imbalances in your body systems, not because of a skincare or medication deficiency,” Stewart tells me. “If you've tried the holistic approach without success, it's likely because the underlying imbalances haven't been correctly addressed, even if it feels like you've tried everything. This means there is hope – you’re not doomed to have acne forever. By fixing these imbalances, you can achieve clear skin!”
“Inflammation is normal and vital to healing,” insists Woodman. “It’s nothing to be afraid of. Only when inflammation levels start to elevate for long periods of time do we need to take definitive action. Chronic inflammation is a sign the body hasn’t been able to complete its healing response – likely because stress factors are still present. That’s when something needs to change.”
“I wish everyone knew that inflammation is often a silent disruptor,” Stewart finishes. “It can be present without obvious symptoms, yet it impacts everything from gut health to skin conditions like acne. Chronic inflammation can stem from poor diet, stress, lack of sleep, and environmental toxins, so understanding and addressing inflammation can prevent many health issues before they become serious.”
Find out more about Katie Stewart Wellness or listen to her podcast The Clear Skin Chronicles, and learn from Cheryl Woodman’s clear skin courses on Honesty for Your Skin.
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