Van Cleef & Arpels Is The World’s Oldest Invite-Only Jewelry Brand That You’ll Probably Never Own
Nothing says wealth and status like fine jewelry.
Luxury brands like Cartier and Chanel are expensive and often worn by celebrities on the red carpet, but that doesn’t make them the most exclusive brands in the world. Enter Van Cleef & Arpels, an invite-only jewelry brand worn by royals.
The Origins and Rise of Van Cleef & Arpels
The start of the company can be traced back to the wedding of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels in 1895. Alfred was the son of a diamond dealer, and Estelle was the daughter of gemstone dealers, so it only made sense for their two families to form a jewelry empire after their union.
Alfred teamed up with Estelle’s brothers to launch Van Cleef & Arpels, opening their first boutique in Paris in 1906. The boutique was located at 22 Place Vendôme, across from the Ritz and on the same street as many luxury brands at the time. Throughout the 1910s, they expanded to other locations across France before expanding even further to New York City and Palm Beach in the 1940s. They designed various types of jewelry, including the coronation crown for Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran in 1967.
As the company grew through the 20th century, so did their exclusive clientele. Some of their most famous clients include Grace Kelly, Wallis Simpson, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Dietrich, Maria Callas, Princess Fawzia of Egypt, and Kate Middleton.
What Makes Van Cleef & Arpels Unique
Renée Puissant, the daughter of Alred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, took over the company as artistic director in 1926 alongside famous designer René-Sim Lacaze, who helped her create the brand’s unique style of jewelry.
One of their most famous techniques is the Mystery Setting. Patented in 1933, the setting design makes precious gemstones look like they’re floating. According to True Facet, “The elaborate faceting technique does not rely upon traditional prongs to hold the stone. Each faceted stone is meticulously set on nearly imperceptible gold rails that are less than two-tenths of a millimeter (0.2mm) thick. (To compare, that is about the same thickness as two pieces of printer paper.) The result is a breathtaking, uninterrupted cascade of gems that appear to be entirely free-standing. These seemingly floating gems beautifully mask the elaborate framework of rails beneath them. Any Van Cleef & Arpels piece that employs the Mystery Set takes no less than 300 hours to produce. Because of this painstaking labor, only a handful of these exquisite pieces are produced each year.”
The Mystery Setting technique is still used in some contemporary designs, making it a longtime staple for Van Cleef & Arpels.
Van Cleef & Arpels Today
Though you can view their various collections on their website, their products are not for sale. They’re only available to people invited to wear them (hence the very exclusive clientele) and are estimated to cost thousands of dollars. Some of their older pieces are available at luxury auctions for tens of thousands of dollars.
Why is Van Cleef & Arpels so exclusive and expensive? The answer is surprisingly simple: It’s more than jewelry, it’s art. Some of their older collections are in art museums around the world. In a culture that’s fascinated by immense wealth and royalty, it only makes sense that there is a jewelry brand for the richest of the rich and the highest of the high.
Closing Thoughts
Cartier and Chanel are seen as luxury brands for the one percent, but they’re nothing compared to Van Cleef & Arpels. From coronation crowns to the jewelry boxes of Hollywood icons and royals, Van Cleef & Arpels is famous for its beauty and exclusivity, making it the ultimate luxury jewelry brand.
Don’t miss anything! Sign up for our weekly newsletter and get curated content weekly!